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Michelin Plays It Safe

Bibendum is not a big fan of Tatiana. Photo: Michelin

The tire team is back in town. Three towns, actually. In a break with tradition, Michelin has simultaneously announced its current roster of stars for three separate cities: Chicago, New York, and Washington, D.C. The biggest news from last night is that Smyth, a high-caliber Chicago restaurant, is a new recipient of three stars, meaning Carmy will likely be sending a member of his brigade there to stage in the next season of The Bear.

Here in New York City, the news is a bit more muted: Odo, a tucked-away Japanese chef’s counter, was upgraded to two stars. Sushi Noz received the same recognition. Speaking of omakase (Michelin loves it!), the Grand Central sushi bar Jōji and Sushi Ichimura each joined a roster of new one-star spots that’s made up of Korean tasting counters (Bōm, Meju), high-technique Euro cooking (Essential by Christophe, Restaurant Yuu), Eyal Shani’s Shmoné, and the biggest name on the list, the almighty Torrisi.

What about some other new favorites, such as Superiority Burger, Lord’s, Tatiana, or Sailor? Non, merci, sayeth Michelin’s inspectors, who are evidently less enthusiastic about these blockbusters than New York’s local diners. At least we won’t have to fight with so many tourists for a table.

If you’re sensing a theme — heavy on old favorites, tweezer cuisine, and sushi — it’s because Michelin’s list of starred New York restaurants has remained more or less unchanged over the past few years, despite seismic shifts in the restaurant industry and diners’ preferences. Michelin, as is its wont, is simply staying the course:

Three Stars

Eleven Madison Park
Le Bernardin
Masa
Per Se

Two Stars

Al Coro
Aquavit
Aska
Atera
Atomix
Blue Hill at Stone Barns
Daniel
Gabriel Kreuther
Jean-Georges
Jungsik
The Modern
Odo
Saga
Sushi Noz

One Star

63 Clinton
Bōm
Casa Mono
Caviar Russe
Clover Hill
Cote
Crown Shy
Dirt Candy
Essential by Christophe
Estela
Family Meal at Blue Hill
The Four Horsemen
Francie
Frevo
Gramercy Tavern
Hirohisa
Icca
Jeju Noodle Bar
Jōji
Joomak Banjum
Jua
Kochi
Kosaka
L’Abeille
Le Coucou
Le Jardinier New York
Le Pavillon
Mari
Meju
The Musket Room
Noda
Noz 17
Oiji Mi
One White Street
Oxalis
Oxomoco
Red Paper Clip
Restaurant Yuu
Rezdôra
Semma
Shion 69 Leonard Street
Shmoné
Sushi Amane
Sushi Ichimura
Sushi Nakazawa
Sushi Yasuda
Tempura Matsui
Torien
Torrisi
Tsukimi
Tuome
Vestry
Yoshino

This post has been updated; Atomix was originally and mistakenly excluded from the two-star category.

Michelin Plays It Safe